Stephen Fries Online

Delray Beach, like Vero Beach, has sand, sea and surf, as well as art, shopping and culture, without the mass overdevelopment and commercialism of the more famous Florida spots.

Of course, let’s not forget great food, hotels and restaurants.

On two recent trips to South Florida, I visited Vero Beach and Delray Beach. My November trip brought me to the Vero Beach Hotel and Spa, a Kimpton Hotel. The place is irresistible. The five-story hotel and spa hugs an entrance courtyard brimming with palm trees, banana trees, heliconia flowers — oh, so tropical.

Inside, I was overcome with the sensation I had arrived in Key West by mistake. A beautiful room overlooks a lagoon-style pool, complete with a Jacuzzi that has a tropical waterfall, and Heaton’s Reef, the poolside thatched roof cabana bar and restaurant.

There, I enjoyed roasted garlic hummus with smoked paprika, olive oil and cumin flatbread and a crispy fish taco with cabbage, lime aioli and pico degallo — a fresh condiment made of tomato, onion and chiles.

This hotel snugs itself so close to the beach and the Atlantic Ocean, I felt I was aboard a cruise ship. The staff is well-trained and happy to make your stay memorable.

The house dog, Oliver, sits in the lobby, adding a homey touch. Kimpton Hotels are dog friendly.

Guests mingle with each other during the daily happy hour featuring light fare and wine.

My first night brought me to the brilliantly styled restaurant, Cobalt, which adjoins the hotel. Stained glass lamps and a sea of handsomely textured pillows create an atmosphere of relaxation, beauty and escape.

Chef Brad Willits prepared an excellent menu using local ingredients. The tasting dinner he prepared included yellowfin tuna tiradito with grape tomato escabeche; citrus marinated stone crab with mache, grapefruit, orange, radish and Meyer lemon oil; butter-poached prawns with risotto, preserved lemon, arugula, tomato and Parmesan broth; grilled wild striped sea bass with roasted fingerling potatoes, leeks, pear tomato and bacon butter sauce; pork belly with dirty rice grits, brussels sprouts, caramelized shallots and bacon jus; scallops with cauliflower puree, collard greens and smoked pork jus.

And for dessert, there was white chocolate cherry bread pudding with white chocolate Grand Marnier crème anglaise and house-made cinnamon ice cream. Breakfast was an out-of-the-ordinary treat, citrus ricotta “souffle” pancakes with candied ginger syrup and cashew streusel.

Vero Beach Hotel & Spa is building a beautiful full-service spa. Amazing are the spa treatments they will offer. Until then, their signature in-room spa services foretell a luxurious spa experience that combines good-to-you and good-for-you.

The coastal charm inspires the exploration of the soul — and the treasures of a seaside village steeped in history.

While in Vero Beach, I visited Frosting, owned by a brother and a sister. Housed in a cute, pink store, their menu features a variety of specialty flavors — including margarita, s’mores, watermelon and mochaccino — that can be enjoyed as a cupcake or another fine confection.

A surprise was having dinner at Oriente, in Gloria and Emilio Estefan’s newest luxury resort, Costa d’Este the Beach Resort and Spa. Trip Advisor ranks the resort fifth in the world among celebrity-owned hotels. There is no better place to explore taste and style than at Oriente.

Inspired, Cuban-influenced cuisine is complemented by a cool atmosphere and hot nightly entertainment. The sous chef, Raymond, prepared a mouth-tingling menu that included pulled lechon pizzetta (pulled pork, fig compote, confit onions, sofrito and bleu cheese); big eye tuna with sliced blood orange, white soy sauce, wasabi oil drizzle; ropa vieja empanadas with yellow tomato salad and shaved manchego viejo, trucha rellena (pan-fried plantain, crusted trout, rock shrimp stuffing, bacon, swiss chard, coconut saffron sauce); bistec a la parilla (12-ounce New York strip, chorizo, twice-cooked potatoes, sauteed spinach, chimichurri verde); and bombon Cubano (flourless chocolate cake, liquid ganache center, tres leches ice cream).

Not having enough time to take in all of the food scene in Vero Beach, I returned for dinner during my visit to Delray Beach in January. Amalfi Grille was a restaurant I had to try.

Executive chef Chester “Chet” Perrotti and manager Bob Rose send their regards to their friends and family in Connecticut. Rose owns Baja in Orange and Perrotti owned Perrotti’s on Wooster Street, Toscana on Crown Street and the wholesale produce company that bears his name.

Both were happy I visitded.

The Italian dinner Perrotti prepared made the trip worth it. The carciofo Francese (egg-battered artichoke hearts in a sherry and lemon butter) was a highlight. Calamari isn’t one of my favorite foods, but Rose ordered me the calamaretti Amalfi (fried calamari, cherry peppers, cannelloni beans, lemon and white wine) and now I am a fan because of the preparation and freshness of the dish.

In Delray Beach, known as “The Village By the Sea,” I stayed at the new Seagate Hotel & Spa. In the heart of the arts and entertainment district, it captures the relaxed, yet vibrant lifestyle of Florida’s Gold Coast. Delray Beach offers the top public beach in southeastern U.S. for swimming and one of the top 35 beaches in the country, according to Travel Holiday magazine. There are numerous festivals and events in the town.

The Seagate’s interior design takes into account the environment around it. From the moment I entered the lobby, I felt as if I still was outdoors. Maintaining the soul of the beach was an important part of the design. There is a massive saltwater fish tank wall displaying colorful sea life, viewable from both sides.

The lobby floor has large shell reef stone circles imbedded in the mesquite wood. The reception area is wrapped in teak and limestone with an illuminated wave backdrop.

The bar, Jellies, has a 5-foot jellyfish tank. The 162 guest rooms feature contemporary designer furniture reflective of the beach lifestyle so central to the city.

The Atlantic Grille features modern American cuisine with a focus on local seafood. Helmed by executive chef Adam Gottlieb, the restaurant boasts an open exhibition kitchen. I was seated at the counter and was able to interact with the chef and see the show.

My tasting dinner included littleneck clams with chorizo, bacon, white beans and tomato; Mediterranean hummus with pita crisps, marinated kalamata olives, feta and roasted red peppers; grilled tenderloin sliders on brioche with smoked gouda, balsamic onions and tarragon aioli; pan-seared scallops with artichoke, mushrooms, sweet onion and celery root puree and pancetta chips; braised boneless beef short ribs with mashed potato and mixed vegetables; truffle fries; cream spinach gratin; and butterscotch white chocolate bread pudding.

The dining room has round, private booths for intimate dinners, but offers an al fresco experience as it flows onto the open-air terrace. The glass-encased wine room features a 12-foot stone table, where I had the opportunity to speak with Gottlieb and William “Chip” Sander III, the general manager who is from East Hartford.

The nearby Seagate Beach Club offers casual and fine dining with gorgeous coastal views. With complimentary transportation provided by the hotel, the club provides access to water sports equipment rentals and the outdoor pool. The spa has treatments such as the Hot Shell Massage, and a fitness center.

My last night in Delray Beach, I wanted to try GOL! The Taste of Brazil. The Brazilian style of eating is famous for its grilling of meat, churrasco style. Fifteen different cuts of meat, grilled shrimp and salmon were brought to my table on skewers and carved by waiters in traditional gaucho dress. The salad bar beautifully displays more than 40 hot and cold items.

The building that houses GOL has a rich history. Constructed in 1925, the Arcade Building, as it was then called, was one of the most magnificent in town.

The building has been returned to its old glory, with a 73-year-old bar. The managing partner asked if I could find the chair Winston Churchill used when he would drink to the morning during his retirement.

An eclectic wine list has a strong emphasis on wines from Chile, Argentina, Spain, Brazil and Portugal. Frank Reider, the managing partner, has a book, “The Super Vineyards of Latin America” being released soon.

I know I have whet your appetite with all of the food I mentioned, so check my column in Wednesday’s food section for a few of the recipes.